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CYA Calculator — Free Chlorine Targets by Stabilizer Level
Enter your CYA level to get your minimum, target, and SLAM free chlorine levels. The most
misunderstood relationship in pool chemistry — explained and calculated.
No sign-ups. Instant results.
💡 Quick answer
Minimum FC = CYA × 7.5% — never let FC drop below this or algae will grow
Target FC = CYA × 10–15% — where you want to maintain chlorine day-to-day
SLAM FC = CYA × 40% — level needed to kill existing algae
Enter your CYA below for your exact numbers.
💡 Always test CYA with a liquid reagent test kit. Test strips frequently misread CYA, leading to incorrect FC targets.
Test your CYA and chlorine accurately:
Example calculation
A pool with CYA of 50 ppm and a current free chlorine reading of 2 ppm:
| Level | Formula | Result | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| Minimum FC | 50 × 7.5% | 4 ppm | ⚠️ Current FC of 2 ppm is below minimum |
| Target FC | 50 × 10–15% | 5–8 ppm | Where to maintain day-to-day |
| SLAM FC | 50 × 40% | 20 ppm | Level needed if algae is present |
At 2 ppm FC with CYA of 50 ppm, this pool is unprotected — algae can establish within 24–48 hours. FC must be raised to at least 4 ppm immediately.
CYA FC Chart — Free Chlorine Targets by Stabilizer Level
Complete FC targets for every common CYA level. Use this chart alongside your test results to know instantly whether your chlorine is safe, low, or critical.
| CYA (ppm) | Minimum FC | Target FC | SLAM FC |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 ppm | 0.5 ppm | 1–2 ppm | 10 ppm |
| 20 ppm | 2 ppm | 2–3 ppm | 8 ppm |
| 30 ppm | 2 ppm | 3–5 ppm | 12 ppm |
| 40 ppm | 3 ppm | 4–6 ppm | 16 ppm |
| 50 ppm | 4 ppm | 5–8 ppm | 20 ppm |
| 60 ppm | 5 ppm | 6–9 ppm | 24 ppm |
| 70 ppm | 5 ppm | 7–10 ppm | 28 ppm |
| 80 ppm | 6 ppm | 8–12 ppm | 32 ppm |
| 90 ppm | 7 ppm | 9–13 ppm | 36 ppm |
| 100 ppm | 8 ppm | 10–15 ppm | 40 ppm |
Minimum FC = CYA × 7.5%. Target FC = CYA × 10–15%. SLAM FC = CYA × 40%. CYA above 80 ppm: consider a partial drain — see our stabilizer calculator.
Is my pool safe to swim? — FC vs CYA safety check
Use this table to instantly check whether your current FC is safe, low, or critical for your CYA level. A pool that tests "2 ppm chlorine" is safe at CYA of 20 ppm but critically under-chlorinated at CYA of 60 ppm.
| Your FC reading | CYA 20–30 ppm | CYA 40–50 ppm | CYA 60–70 ppm | CYA 80+ ppm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0–1 ppm | 🚫 Unsafe | 🚫 Unsafe | 🚫 Unsafe | 🚫 Unsafe |
| 2 ppm | ✅ Safe | ⚠️ Low | 🚫 Unsafe | 🚫 Unsafe |
| 3 ppm | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | ⚠️ Low | 🚫 Unsafe |
| 4–5 ppm | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | ⚠️ Low |
| 6–8 ppm | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe | ✅ Safe |
✅ Safe = FC is at or above minimum threshold for that CYA level.
⚠️ Low = FC is below target but above absolute minimum — add chlorine soon.
🚫 Unsafe = FC is below the minimum threshold — do not swim, add chlorine immediately.
Use the chlorine calculator to find the exact dose needed to reach your
target FC.
What minimum, target, and SLAM FC mean
Minimum FC — the floor
The minimum free chlorine level is the lowest FC at which your pool has enough active hypochlorous acid (HOCl) to prevent algae growth at your CYA level. Below this, chlorine demand from algae and bacteria exceeds chlorine supply and the pool will turn green — often within 24–48 hours in warm weather.
The minimum is approximately CYA × 7.5%. At CYA of 40 ppm, that's 3 ppm FC minimum. A reading of 2 ppm at that CYA looks like "some chlorine" but is below the protection threshold.
Target FC — where to maintain daily
The target FC range is CYA × 10–15%. This gives a comfortable buffer above the minimum so that normal chlorine consumption from sunlight, swimmers, and organics doesn't drag FC below the floor overnight or between tests. For a pool with CYA of 50 ppm, maintain FC between 5–8 ppm day-to-day.
Test at least twice a week and add chlorine whenever FC drops toward the lower end of the target range. Use our chlorine calculator for exact doses.
SLAM FC — the algae killer
The SLAM level is CYA × 40%. This is the elevated FC required to kill existing algae within hours rather than days. It must be actively maintained — not just reached once. FC drops rapidly as it kills algae, so it must be topped up every 2–4 hours during a SLAM.
Use the SLAM calculator for step-by-step guidance, liquid chlorine dose calculations, and the three completion tests.
Why CYA changes how much chlorine you need
🔬 HOCl is the active sanitizer
Free chlorine exists in two forms in pool water: active hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and inactive hypochlorite ion (OCl⁻). Only HOCl kills algae and bacteria. CYA binds to HOCl, reducing the active fraction dramatically.
☀️ CYA protects chlorine from UV
Without CYA, direct sunlight destroys 75% of free chlorine in about 2 hours. CYA slows this degradation, making outdoor pools practical. This is why it's called "stabilizer" — it stabilizes chlorine against UV loss.
⚖️ The tradeoff
More CYA means better UV protection but weaker active chlorine per ppm of FC. Too little CYA and chlorine burns off before it can work. Too much CYA and you need impractically high FC levels to stay protected. The 30–50 ppm range is the sweet spot.
📈 CYA only goes up
Every trichlor tablet and dichlor granule adds CYA. Over a season, CYA accumulates. The only way to lower it is a partial drain and refill. Test CYA monthly and track the trend — it's much easier to manage before it gets out of hand.
💡 Use our stabilizer calculator to raise or lower CYA, and our chlorine calculator to dose chlorine to your FC target.
What to do when CYA is too high
CYA above 80–90 ppm creates a condition sometimes called "chlorine lock" — though the more accurate description is that the minimum FC needed to prevent algae becomes so high that it's impractical to maintain. At CYA of 100 ppm, minimum FC is 8 ppm and the SLAM target is 40 ppm. Maintaining 8 ppm FC daily in a 20,000 gallon pool is expensive and difficult.
Signs your CYA is too high:
• Pool keeps going green despite regular chlorination
• FC reads "okay" (2–4 ppm) but algae grows anyway
• You're adding more chlorine than ever but the pool won't hold it
• CYA test reads above 80 ppm
Solution: Partial drain and refill. Drain 30–50% of the pool volume and refill with fresh water. This dilutes CYA proportionally. Use our stabilizer calculator to calculate exactly how much to drain to reach your target CYA.
Switching to liquid chlorine or cal-hypo (instead of trichlor tablets) stops further CYA accumulation — neither adds CYA. This is the most important long-term fix alongside the drain.
Verify CYA accurately before and after any drain with a liquid reagent test kit — test strips frequently misread CYA and can underestimate by 20–30 ppm.
CYA and free chlorine calculator FAQs
What is the relationship between CYA and free chlorine?
CYA binds to active chlorine (HOCl) and reduces how much is available to sanitize at any given FC reading. Higher CYA means more total free chlorine is needed to maintain the same level of sanitizing protection. The minimum safe FC is approximately 7.5% of your CYA level.
How much free chlorine do I need for my CYA level?
Minimum FC to prevent algae: CYA × 7.5%. Daily target FC: CYA × 10–15%. SLAM level to kill existing algae: CYA × 40%. Use the calculator above to get your exact numbers, or refer to the full chart for quick reference.
Why does my pool turn green when chlorine reads 2–3 ppm?
Almost always a CYA problem. If CYA is 60 ppm or higher, a reading of 2–3 ppm FC is below the minimum threshold needed to prevent algae. The pool appears to have chlorine but lacks the HOCl concentration to suppress growth. Test CYA, find your minimum FC from the chart above, and raise FC above that threshold immediately.
What CYA level is ideal for an outdoor pool?
30–50 ppm is the ideal range for outdoor chlorine pools. This provides meaningful UV protection without requiring impractically high FC levels to stay above the minimum threshold. Saltwater pools can run 60–80 ppm since the generator continuously replenishes chlorine. Indoor pools need little or no CYA as there is no UV exposure.
Can CYA get too high, and how do I lower it?
Yes — above 80–90 ppm for standard pools. The only way to lower CYA is a partial drain and refill. No chemical removes CYA from pool water. Use our stabilizer calculator to calculate how much water to drain to reach your target CYA. After draining, switch to liquid chlorine or cal-hypo to prevent CYA from climbing again.
Does CYA affect the SLAM method?
Yes — directly. The SLAM target FC is always CYA × 40%. Higher CYA means a higher SLAM target, which requires more liquid chlorine and makes the process longer and more expensive. This is why it's recommended to bring CYA below 70 ppm before attempting a SLAM. See the SLAM calculator for complete guidance.
Do saltwater pools need a different CYA level?
Saltwater pools generally run at a slightly higher CYA of 60–80 ppm. The salt chlorine generator continuously produces chlorine, so the higher minimum FC threshold caused by elevated CYA is easier to maintain. The same FC/CYA ratio rules apply: FC must still be at least 7.5% of your CYA level to prevent algae. Use the calculator above to confirm your targets at any CYA level.
Do I need CYA in an indoor pool?
No. CYA's purpose is to protect chlorine from UV degradation from sunlight. Indoor pools have no UV exposure so stabilizer provides no benefit. More importantly, without UV to destroy chlorine naturally, CYA in an indoor pool simply lowers the active chlorine fraction without any upside — effectively making chlorination less efficient. Indoor pools should maintain near-zero CYA.